156 replies to this topic

[88LSCMK7]

Finally found some time to work on the car yesterday. I figured I would do all the ES bushings and the sway bars.

A couple corrections for the list, first 4-3114 is not a Rear LCA Bushing kit, it is an upper and lower kit with "round " front LCA bushing, scrap it from the list completely.
I am driving around with rear poly UCA and one rear lower one 1/2 done. You want to use the 4-3115 kit.

Second correction for the list, Sway Bar Mounts for TC bar #9-5167 - these are about 1/4" short if you use the stock LSC brackets. I am going to try ordering the 4-5101 and see if they fit better.

Anyway, after 4 or 5 attempts to shim the bushings so I could drive the car, I finally got it right. Of course the stupid little clips that hold the nut for the brackets were broken, so I had to squeeze a 16mm wrench up in there to hold the nuts. While tightening the last bolt, the wrench slipped and cleaned the fitting off the bottom of the power steering reservoir :nono:
Well, I knew in my storage (40 mile round trip) I had a re-man, so off I went, got the pump, got it in.
So after 10 hours, I got rear UCA poly'd, 2 new sway bars and a power steering pump. Glad this wasn't a flat rate job.

The good news, holy sh%t, what an improvement in handling, even on wet roads. I went thru a few corners that I take every day, and it feels like I am driving a new car.
I can't wait to finish the job to see how good it is with the rest of the rear and the front done. I noticed some extra road noise and I imagine it will get worse when I do the rest of the bushings, but it’s worth every bit of it.

Maybe it wasn't that bad a day after all :headbang:

[Lux]

Silverfox, thanks for the offer, but i'm set right now.

88mk7, Let me know how those tc mounts work.

[SilverFox]

kEEP ME POSTED on the TC mounts.

[88LSCMK7]

I'll let you guys know about the TC mounts, will take a couple weeks as I have to mail order them.

[Michael VII LSC/SE]

Just a thought from my experience from the front rebuild. Most alignement shops I've dealt with Just adjust the toe. They do not want to adjust the camber. So you are responsible to get it as close as possible to factory specs as you can so they can fine tune it later.
Before you take it all apart, get reference measurements on your current alignement. My thinking is have the front up on stands wheels off at ride height and ready to disassemble. This should be the same position you torque the NEW completed assembly back to factory specs. Having a print out of your last alignement and knowing how she steers is good. Maybe a bubble level on the rotor, dial indicator, a good Eyeball, and multiple measurements, reference points, and Marks.

Any better ideas would be appreciated.

I would even recommend a pre and post printout of the new alignement after you've finished. It can be useful if you have to chase down a tracking problem.

[SilverFox]

We need confirmation that Steeda X2 ball joints will/will not work with the front arms. I think the conversation ended with YES they would fit the arms but NO they will not fit the spindles.....Is there a spindle that we can convert too that would keep the ABS ring/rotor combo? I would only assume the strut mounts/tie rods would be the same.

[PnyPwr]

I do know Ford used 2 different size balljoints on the fox cars and the taper is different between the 2. I have heard rumors that a spacer can be used/made/purchased to use the bigger spindle on the smaller taper balljoint. MY experience is that the SVO/ Continental front coil spring lower A arm uses the bigger balljoint as I have done this conversion on a few Mustangs. Mustangs Tbirds et-al used the smaller taper

[SilverFox]

Okay newbie........J/K Howdy Chris....do you have any more detail as to how you can mate the smaller (presumably the X2 is of the smaller breed) to the SVO/Cont/Mark arms. One thing to consider is safety or longetivity?

Is it okay to post this on a sticky thread? SOrry.

[Lux]

SilverFox said:

Is it okay to post this on a sticky thread? SOrry.

More information in one place, the better. :headbang:

[swampthing]

i say you just light a match to the pos and burn it, hah j/k mayn. I think you should run dynomax oval bullit race mufflers and either go out in front of the tires or just dump it. Them dynomax's sound fuckin badass on my bronco, i have no complaints about them at all! Smoke it

[jsev22]

swampthing said:

i say you just light a match to the pos and burn it, hah j/k mayn. I think you should run dynomax oval bullit race mufflers and either go out in front of the tires or just dump it. Them dynomax's sound fuckin badass on my bronco, i have no complaints about them at all! Smoke it

WTF are you talking about? :wtf: This topic has nothing to do with exhaust.

[swampthing]

yo man. i say u just light a match to it haha j/k. I say you put a set of dynomax bullit race mufflers on it and get rid of them quiet ass blowmasters, bullit race mufflers sound awesome on my bronco and i am sure they wouldsound good on your lincoln. Smoke it!

[Lux]

Eric,

I know that was some good smoke last night, but god damn!!!!

You aint still blazed are you ?!?:rofl:

[swampthing]

man i hope i still aint blazed..haha..this mofo sayin stuff about "topic" i dont care bout topic..i said what i said cause i think ur car would sound good wit that exhaust..so backoff puta

[Lux]

I hear ya, although i'd bet getting pulled over WAYYY to much. So the blowmasters will do for the mean time AND HOLY FUCKING SHIT YOUR TRUCK IS LOUD!! :headbang: :headbang:

Now, lets go back to the previous :cool:

Performance Suspension/Mounts/Interchange/Part #'s/Refrence List & Add. Information..

[swampthing]

give me a couple months and let me know if u wanna switch over to the dynomax's...i will sell u both of mine for a good price because i am switching from 2 1/2 to 3...

[Tubby]

ballacxk

[Tubby]

lETS CYMSHOT O \N THIS HOERE

[Lux]

:eyebrow:

...so as not to get off topic.

I see this was in my first post , forgot where i got it from.

Quote

I suggest you also replace the rear endlinks bolts, sleeves, and nuts, but use the
endlink grommets that come in the Addco package. When ordering the rear endlinks,
make sure you order the heavy-duty option, as the non heavy-duty endlinks ended up
being too short. The correct rear endlink sleeves measured 5-3/4"......

.....One other tip: if the bolts that hold the sway bar brackets up are rusty and nasty looking like mine were, I suggest you replace them with new ones.

Anyway, i tried using a 3/8 bolt with the new bushings, fits them perfect but not the fucking washers. Instead of buying all new end link hardware kits, when all i need is the bolts, any ideas?

Where do i get new mounts?

P.S. I really dont feel like drilling out all the damn washers to fit a 3/8 bolt.

[Lux]

I just got the moog rear swaybar link kits #k3124 and its a 3/8 bolt, but still same problem, to much play in the es bushings and it wont fit the washers :dunno:

i really dont feel like dropping 35 bucks to get two kits with "thermoplastic bushings" when all i need is two bolts and i could use the poly bushings.

and 10mm has the same problem :rant: