Aluminum Driveshaft
Started by Oil_Injected, Jul 22 2011 06:35 PM
35 replies to this topic
#22
#26
Posted 11 November 2011 - 10:54 PM
W.V. Kelly, on 11 November 2011 - 10:47 PM, said:
IIRC you'll save about 9 pounds.
Armond, I'm sure you've already checked but your flange to seal distance might be different.
W. V. Kelly
Armond, I'm sure you've already checked but your flange to seal distance might be different.
W. V. Kelly
Nope.
The truck 4R70W and the Lincoln AOD are exactly the same length. All I needed was to swap the correct 4R70W yoke onto my driveshaft.
I currently have a one piece driveshaft. Had to ditch the double u-joint quite a while back.
Thought an aluminum one would be more appropiate for the speeds the car will see.
#28
Posted 12 November 2011 - 10:56 PM
88MK7Man, on 11 November 2011 - 12:35 AM, said:
I'm sure I could. I have friends who own 3 different security companies in the Sacramento area and they all have parts P71's.. lol
Seeing how i'm practically right here... I'm willing to pick it up in person. That is once all the details are taken care of.
#31
Posted 13 November 2011 - 11:43 PM
Removes the spicer joint, reduces weight and is much much stronger than the origional.
Aluminum before being shortened.

Mark 7 shaft, just as it came out of the car.

Depends on how much I can get the shaft for. I just sent out 2 this week at $300 shipped.
If anyone is interested in part numbers or specs, please PM me and I will pass on all the info I have on how to build your own.
First step is to look in the yellow pages for a driveline specialist. I learned that a machine shop is not a driveline specialist.
Aluminum before being shortened.

Mark 7 shaft, just as it came out of the car.

chestnut101, on 13 November 2011 - 09:14 PM, said:
how much for a bolt in?
Depends on how much I can get the shaft for. I just sent out 2 this week at $300 shipped.
If anyone is interested in part numbers or specs, please PM me and I will pass on all the info I have on how to build your own.
First step is to look in the yellow pages for a driveline specialist. I learned that a machine shop is not a driveline specialist.
#33
Posted 14 November 2011 - 06:00 PM
Oil_Injected, on 13 November 2011 - 11:43 PM, said:
Removes the spicer joint, reduces weight and is much much stronger than the origional.
Aluminum before being shortened.

Mark 7 shaft, just as it came out of the car.

Depends on how much I can get the shaft for. I just sent out 2 this week at $300 shipped.
If anyone is interested in part numbers or specs, please PM me and I will pass on all the info I have on how to build your own.
First step is to look in the yellow pages for a driveline specialist. I learned that a machine shop is not a driveline specialist.
Aluminum before being shortened.

Mark 7 shaft, just as it came out of the car.

Depends on how much I can get the shaft for. I just sent out 2 this week at $300 shipped.
If anyone is interested in part numbers or specs, please PM me and I will pass on all the info I have on how to build your own.
First step is to look in the yellow pages for a driveline specialist. I learned that a machine shop is not a driveline specialist.
Looking forward to getting the product on the car.
I hope this week
#35
Posted 05 December 2011 - 05:23 PM
Look what I received from the post girl today,, she said "my, you have a large package, where should I put it" Smart ass thinking came to mind, but yeah, Oil_Injected., thanks for the goodie.
I like the "POLICE" stamp.

REAR END

FRONT END

I know I won't be putting this on for a little while,, I've got plenty of work to get done on the re-due and the Holidays have been taking my work moments elsewhere.
I like the "POLICE" stamp.

REAR END

FRONT END

I know I won't be putting this on for a little while,, I've got plenty of work to get done on the re-due and the Holidays have been taking my work moments elsewhere.
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