Picked up the car last week, 85,068 mi., but it sat for 3 yrs. after an accident (front bumper/fenders/hood- all replaced) but not bad enough to set off the air bag per car-fax.
Front calipers frozen (replaced today), AC good (recharged today - held 27" hg vac for a week.
The questionable parts? Car had P235/75/15 tires on the rear, and P225/75/15s on the front, and the seller had no idea how long they'd been on the car. With this being basically an AWD, how much damage could be done by that? The tire sizes come to a 2+% error.
The other thing is the hi-mount light - doesn't light up, but has +v to the ballast. Can't find V out tho, and the replacemant light is $97.00 (my price - roughly 30% off retail) Lousy shop manual I bought doesn't say ANYTHING about it.
Only gave $2400 for the car, so I'm not real hurt (so far). Gotta get a new set of hoops this week.
Any experience here with either of these issues??
1
"97 Explorer
Started by markedman90, Jun 11 2011 10:56 PM
3 replies to this topic
#2
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- Members
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Caution !! Shiny When Wet
Posted 14 August 2011 - 11:53 PM
Same vehicle, new issue: Basically this is an AWD truck. The issue now is that the 4WD / 4LO lamp flashes 6 X while running - moving. It also flashes 4X @ startup, then goes off.
Neither the CD manual nor the paper manuals (including EVTM) show what may be causing the light to flash.
Somewhere along the line, I read/heard that there is a hall effect sensor on the driveshaft(s) that feeds the PCM looking for whether the shafts are rotating @ near the same speed - I know that the transfer case has a viscous coupling that slips as needed to account for the turning of the front wheels.
Another issue is that the trans code on the door is "D" - not listed in the manuals. They only show a "U" code for a 4R70W.
Any experience with these ?
Neither the CD manual nor the paper manuals (including EVTM) show what may be causing the light to flash.
Somewhere along the line, I read/heard that there is a hall effect sensor on the driveshaft(s) that feeds the PCM looking for whether the shafts are rotating @ near the same speed - I know that the transfer case has a viscous coupling that slips as needed to account for the turning of the front wheels.
Another issue is that the trans code on the door is "D" - not listed in the manuals. They only show a "U" code for a 4R70W.
Any experience with these ?
#3
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- Members
- 3,513 posts
Caution !! Shiny When Wet
Posted 19 January 2012 - 12:33 PM
Same vehicle, ANOTHER ISSUE.
The cel started coming /going a month or so ago, then stayed on. Code for "insufficient egr flow".
I replaced some of the brittle plastice vac tubing, ck'd valve w/ mity-vac, seemed OK.
Good vac to solenoid, NO vac to valve, replaced solenoid. CEL stayed off for 4 days.
Went back, rechecked everything, cleared code, cel off 4 days. WTF? Now I have a new valve waiting to go on this weekend.
The odd thing is, the solenoid is getting battery voltage (14+). Looking @ the diagrams, I can't figure out where the feed is for that voltage. I can't get the egr to work just bringing the rpm up in the garage, so I'm thinking the vss might be involved somehow, or could this be a function of a bad O2 sensor?
The cel started coming /going a month or so ago, then stayed on. Code for "insufficient egr flow".
I replaced some of the brittle plastice vac tubing, ck'd valve w/ mity-vac, seemed OK.
Good vac to solenoid, NO vac to valve, replaced solenoid. CEL stayed off for 4 days.
Went back, rechecked everything, cleared code, cel off 4 days. WTF? Now I have a new valve waiting to go on this weekend.
The odd thing is, the solenoid is getting battery voltage (14+). Looking @ the diagrams, I can't figure out where the feed is for that voltage. I can't get the egr to work just bringing the rpm up in the garage, so I'm thinking the vss might be involved somehow, or could this be a function of a bad O2 sensor?
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